Complete Yamaha Raptor 660 Wiring Diagram Guide for 2001 Model
For diagnosing wiring faults on this ATV model, start by isolating the ignition circuit. Disconnect the main harness at the ECU plug–pins 1, 2, and 12 carry the critical trigger signals. Verify continuity between ground and pin 12 with a multimeter set to ohms; readings above 0.5Ω indicate corrosion in the stator return path. If the stator checks out, move to the voltage regulator: probe the yellow (AC input) and red (DC output) wires at the regulator connector while cranking. A drop below 13.8V under load confirms a weak rectifier bridge.
Color codes on this machine follow a non-standard scheme compared to later quads–double-check every wire against the factory service manual. The gray/red tracer wire from the CDI to the ignition coil carries the spark signal; a failing coil often shows intermittent voltage spikes here. Test the kill-switch circuit by measuring resistance between the green/white ground wire and the black kill-switch lead: infinite resistance suggests a broken trace in the handlebar switch cluster, not a short.
To trace fuel-injection issues, focus on the brown/blue wire from the MAP sensor to the ECU (pin 3). A reading below 0.5V at idle indicates a vacuum leak or faulty sensor. The pink wire from the throttle position sensor should swing smoothly between 0.5V and 4.2V as the throttle opens–any abrupt drops point to a worn-out potentiometer. Always use solder and heat-shrink for repairs; crimp connectors on this model degrade within 18 months, especially in the rear harness under the seat.
For starter relay problems, pull the relay and jump terminals 30 and 87 with a fused 10A wire–if the starter kicks, the relay is suspect. The black/yellow wire from the ignition switch to the relay should show key-on voltage at least 11.5V; lower readings mean a failing switch or blown 15A fuse in the fuse block. Replace the starter solenoid if voltage drops to near zero when the starter engages–this indicates internal arcing.
Electrical System Blueprint for the 2001 ATV Model
Locate the main ignition switch connector adjacent to the steering column–pins 1 (red/white) and 3 (black) must show continuity when the key turns to “ON” to confirm power relay activation. Failure here indicates a worn barrel or faulty internal contacts; replace the switch assembly if resistance exceeds 0.5 ohms.
Trace the stator’s three-phase output wires (yellow) to the regulator-rectifier unit. Each stator coil should register 0.3–0.6 ohms between any two yellow wires and zero continuity to the ATV chassis. A reading above 1.0 ohm signals coil degradation–remove the left crankcase cover to access and replace the stator.
Key Troubleshooting Pathways
- Headlight circuit: Disconnect the 5-pin headlight connector (gray wires). Test pin 2 (blue wire) for 12V battery voltage with the high-beam engaged; absence suggests a blown fuse or corroded battery terminal–clean with sandpaper or replace the 20A fuse.
- ECU connections: Probe the ECU’s 22-pin connector (black, located under the seat). Pins 1 (red) and 13 (white/red) should both show 12V; if pin 13 drops below 11V, inspect the gray 10A fuse linking the ignition coil.
- Starter motor: Remove the starter solenoid (right side of engine) and verify the small terminal (purple wire) receives 12V during cranking. Absence indicates a faulty starter relay–swap with the identical horn relay for immediate confirmation.
Inspect the CDI box’s 6-pin connector (white plug). Pin 1 (black/red) must pulse 5V AC during RPM cycles–use a multimeter’s AC mode to confirm. If no pulse appears, the pulse generator coil (beneath the flywheel) is compromised; remove the flywheel using Yamaha tool YM-08200 to replace it.
Examine the kill switch circuit (black/yellow wire). Both switch positions (“run” and “kill”) should maintain continuity–any interruption points to oxidized contacts. Desolder the switch, clean terminals with contact cleaner, or replace the entire assembly if pitting is visible under a 10x loupe.
- Remove the fuel tank to expose the chassis wiring harness. Check the 4-pin injector connector (green/white wires) for 12V on pin 1–absence requires tracing back to the ECU ground wire (pin 15, brown), often severed near the swing-arm pivot.
- Test the TPS (throttle position sensor) at the 3-pin connector (gray plug). With throttle closed, pin 2 should read 0.6–0.9V; at wide open, 4.0–4.5V. Values outside this range mean the TPS needs recalibration via Yamaha diagnostic tool YDS-00 or replacement if faulty.
- Verify the neutral safety switch (green/white wire) by rotating the gear selector. Continuity should only exist in neutral–replace the switch if resistance fluctuates above 0.3 ohms.
Clean all ground points–particularly the engine-to-chassis strap (behind the clutch cover) and the battery negative terminal. Oxidation here reduces voltage by 0.3–0.7V, mimicking stator failure. Scrape surfaces to bare metal, apply dielectric grease, and torque bolts to 12 Nm.
Critical Wire Gauges
- Battery positive (red): 8 AWG.
- Stator output (yellow): 16 AWG.
- Ignition coil primary (white/red): 18 AWG.
- Fuel pump (orange): 20 AWG.
Replace any wire showing nicks deeper than 20% of its diameter–use marine-grade tinned copper wire for replacements. Solder joints with rosin flux, then heat-shrink tubing to prevent future corrosion.
Key Harness Attachment Points on an Early Model Sport ATV
Trace the primary electrical harness along the frame’s left side, starting beneath the seat. The main bundle splits into three critical junctions: the ignition coil connector (a 4-pin plug with red, black, yellow, and green wires), the stator output (two thicker orange leads), and the CDI module interface (a 6-pin connector with blue, white, and gray wires). Label each split with masking tape before disconnecting–note the locking tabs on the CDI connector require pressing while pulling.
Connector Locations by System
| System | Connector Type | Wire Colors | Frame Position |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lighting | 3-pin oval | Brown, Blue, White | Front subframe, near radiator |
| Battery Feed | Fused link (blade) | Red, Brown | Under tail section, above rear fender |
| Ground | Ring terminal cluster | Black | Left side engine mount |
| Throttle Position | 2-pin micro | Green/White, Yellow/Red | Behind carburetor |
Verify each terminal for corrosion–clean with CRC contact cleaner and a wire brush if resistance exceeds 0.5 ohms. The kill switch wiring (black/white and green) terminates at the right handlebar switchgear; check continuity before reassembly.
Pinpointing Critical Parts in the ATV’s Electrical Framework
Locate the stator coil beneath the engine cover–it generates AC current. Check resistance between terminals: phase leads should read 0.2–0.5 ohms; any deviation indicates internal shorting. Mark each wire with heat-shrink tubing before detachment to prevent misreconnection during reassembly.
Ignition System Verification
Trace the CDI box inputs: black/white wire delivers 12V from the regulator-rectifier, while green serves as signal ground. Probe the pick-up coil (blue/yellow) at 200–400 ohms; values outside this range signal degraded windings. Replace the entire unit if readings are erratic–individual coil repair is impractical.
Inspect the starter solenoid near the battery tray. Apply 12V directly to the small terminal to test engagement–audible click confirms proper function. Corrosion at the battery terminals reduces voltage to the solenoid, causing intermittent starter failure; clean contacts with a wire brush and apply dielectric grease.
The flasher relay sits adjacent to the fuse block, identifiable by its two-prong connector. Swap it with a known-working relay to isolate turn-signal issues before troubleshooting further down the circuit. A failed relay often mimics bulb failure, wasting hours on unnecessary bulb checks.
Follow the main harness from the ignition switch: red wire carries 12V hot-in-run, brown carries accessory power, and black/white is ignition feed. Crimp new connectors using 14–16 AWG terminals if wire insulation shows cracking–compromised insulation leads to voltage drop and intermittent faults.
Test the voltage regulator under load: connect a multimeter to the battery, start the engine, and rev to 5000 RPM. Voltage should stabilize at 13.8–14.5V; readings below 13V indicate failing diodes within the regulator. Replace the unit as a single assembly–internal components are not serviceable.
Step-by-Step Guide to Tracing the Ignition Circuit in the Electrical Schematic
Locate the ignition switch on the schematic–typically marked with “IG” or “IGN” near a labeled connector. Follow the colored wire (often red or orange) from the switch to the main fuse, usually a 15–30A blade-style fuse. Verify continuity here with a multimeter: probe both fuse terminals while the key is in the “ON” position; readings should show near-zero resistance.
From the fuse, trace the circuit to the ignition relay–look for a small black or gray box labeled “Relay” or “Ignition Relay.” The relay’s coil side will connect to the switch via a thin control wire (often yellow or white), while the power output (thick gauge, red or pink) leads to the CDI unit. Confirm relay function by listening for a click when turning the key; no click indicates a faulty relay or broken control wire. Check the relay’s 85 and 86 terminals for 12V when the key is on; absence suggests an open circuit between the switch and relay.
At the CDI, identify the ignition coil trigger wire (usually black with a colored stripe) leading to the primary coil winding. Back-probe the coil connector with the multimeter: turning the key to “ON” should register 10–12V at the coil’s positive terminal. If voltage is present but the engine won’t spark, swap in a known-good coil to isolate the failure. For no-voltage scenarios, inspect the kill switch wiring–often bypassed in aftermarket setups–and ensure the sidestand switch isn’t interrupting the circuit.