Complete 2017 Mitsubishi Lancer Speaker Wiring Color Code Guide
Locate the factory harness behind the door panels or under the dashboard on the driver’s side–gray or black connectors indicate standard audio outputs. Pinouts follow this pattern: front left (+) connects to terminal A3, front left (-) to B4, front right (+) to A1, front right (-) to B2. Rear channels mirror this layout with rear left (+/-) on C5/C6 and rear right (+/-) on D7/D8. Verify ground wires (typically brown) terminate at chassis points near the kick panel.
Color codes for aftermarket upgrades differ from OEM wiring. Stock wires use violet/white for left rear positive, gray/black for right rear negative–match these to amplifier inputs labeled FL+/FL-, FR+/FR-, RL+/RL-, RR+/RR-. For passive crossovers, connect tweeters to A5/A6 (blue/red striped wires) and woofers to the remaining terminals. Avoid splicing into the CAN bus lines (orange/light blue)–these control vehicle data and may trigger errors if disrupted.
Test continuity before finalizing connections. Use a multimeter to confirm 4-ohm resistance between positive and negative leads; readings outside 3.5-4.5 ohms indicate improper pairing or short circuits. Secure all joints with solder and heat-shrink tubing–electrical tape degrades over time. For premium systems, bypass the stock amplifier (hidden behind the glovebox) by rerouting wires directly to the head unit’s RCA outputs. Keep the antenna lead (pink wire) connected to maintain radio reception.
Vehicle Audio System Connection Guide for the 2017 Model
Begin by identifying the factory harness connectors behind the head unit. The front door tweeters and mid-range units share a 12-pin plug labeled “A” with color-coded wires: red/blue for front left positive, white/blue for front left negative, yellow/blue for front right positive, and green/blue for front right negative.
Rear full-range drivers use a separate 6-pin connector marked “B”. The rear left channel is served by a pink/black wire for positive and a pink/white stripe for ground; rear right requires a violet/black lead for positive and a violet/white stripe for the return path.
| Component | Color Code | Signal Type | Connector Pin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front Left Tweeter | Red/Blue | Positive | A-1 |
| Front Left Mid | White/Blue | Negative | A-3 |
| Front Right Mid | Yellow/Blue | Positive | A-8 |
| Front Right Tweeter | Green/Blue | Negative | A-10 |
Amplifier remote turn-on is a solid light-green wire on connector “C,” pin 2. Ensure this wire is connected to the aftermarket amplifier’s trigger input to avoid silent operation. Ignore any purple/yellow wires–they carry navigation data and do not affect audio performance.
Subwoofer outputs, if present, are found on connector “D,” pins 4 (solid gray) and 5 (gray/black stripe). These are pre-fader signals; connect them to the low-level inputs of a dedicated amplifier rated for at least 200W RMS at 2 ohms to prevent clipping.
Ground connections must go directly to chassis points behind the dashboard, not the head unit’s metal casing. Use 10-gauge wire and sand down the mounting point to bare metal for corrosion-free contact. Failure to do this will result in engine noise bleeding into the sound system.
For vehicles equipped with factory navigation, the antenna retention lead is a solid black wire on connector “A,” pin 12. Route this to the antenna power module separately from audio grounds to avoid interference.
Aftermarket radios require an adaptor harness that matches the 24-pin layout. Cutting factory plugs risks unresponsive door chimes and malfunctioning vehicle settings. Always verify compatibility with a multimeter continuity test before soldering or crimping new connections.
Identifying Front and Rear Audio System Cable Hues
Check the driver’s side door kick panel first–here, the front audio connectors typically split into two pairs: solid white for the positive (+) lead and white with a black stripe for the negative (-). Mirror this pattern on the passenger side, though some models merge the rear door cables into the main harness near the B-pillar.
Rear unit cables cluster beneath the rear seat or parcel shelf. The left channel positive appears in solid gray, while its companion negative strip carries a violet trace. Opposite, the right channel swaps gray for solid green, retaining the violet-stripe negative. Confirm polarity with a 9V battery–transient pops indicate correct orientation.
Avoid confusing cabin feed cables with antenna extension wires; the latter carry thin coaxial shielding and terminate near the head unit, whereas audio leads thicken near mid-door splices. Trace each wire’s path back to the amplifier harness if equipped–aftermarket adapters sometimes relocate original codes.
Factory schematics label door tweeter feeds separately: look for tiny gauge wires paired as light blue (+) and light blue-black (-) tucked inside the A-pillar trim. These bypass the midrange driver, delivering high-frequency signals directly from the crossovers.
Trunk-mounted subwoofer connections deviate–solid purple (+) and purple-black (-) indicate a dedicated low-frequency output; these terminate at the subwoofer amplifier or directly at the driver if factory integrated. Wire diameters here exceed standard door harness thicknesses for increased power handling.
Verify permutations against a multimeter: activate the system’s test tone via diagnostic menus (consult owner’s manual for button sequences), then probe each cable–DC voltage spikes during tone bursts confirm functional leads. Document each measurement for reference if splicing aftermarket adapters.
Reassembly caution: re-secure door panel clips by pressing firmly until an audible snap confirms engagement; missed clips risk intermittent signal drops from flexing cables during vehicle motion.
Accessing Audio Unit Connectors Inside Door Panels
Remove the inner door handle trim first by inserting a flat plastic pry tool between the panel and the metal frame near the pull handle’s base. Apply steady pressure upwards until the clips release–two at the top, one at the bottom–then lift the trim straight off without twisting. Unplug the door lock switch connector beneath before setting the trim aside.
Detaching the Panel Safely
- Locate all ten retaining clips around the perimeter–four along the bottom edge, three near the latch, and three along the front edge adjacent to the mirror.
- Use a panel removal tool to begin at the bottom rear corner, working upward in small increments to avoid snapping clips.
- Pull the panel outward gently once all clips are free; resist forcing it forward–an interference clip near the window regulator may still hold it.
- Disconnect the power window switch harness by pressing the release tab with a narrow screwdriver before fully removing the panel.
Identify the factory harness connectors behind the exposed cavity plate–typically a 2-pin for tweeters and a 4-pin for mid-bass units. Strip 5mm of insulation from the replacement cable ends, then use crimp connectors or solder with heat shrink tubing for secure joints. Route new cables through the existing grommet between the door and body, ensuring no sharp edges contact them; test continuity before reassembling the panel in reverse order, pressing until each clip audibly clicks.
Matching OEM and Third-Party Audio Harness Adapters
Start by locating the factory harness behind the door panel or dashboard unit–most aftermarket plug-ins replicate the OEM pin layout but vary in color coding. Check for standard 6-pin ISO connectors or 8-pin Molex plugs; these typically split into power, ground, and signal clusters. If the harness uses non-standard plugs (e.g., square 10-pin or oval 12-pin), trace each wire with a multimeter in continuity mode to confirm function before splicing.
Common aftermarket adapters include Metra 70-8112, AX-TOY12, and Scosche SU09B–these often include a color-coded guide matching input/output pairs. For instance, solid yellow usually indicates +12V constant, while striped brown typically denotes speaker positive on the rear right channel. Refer to the adapter’s printed schematic rather than assuming OEM colors will align; manufacturers like JL Audio or Rockford Fosgate sometimes invert or merge signals.
Cross-Referencing Pinouts for Amplifier Integration
When connecting to an external amp, identify the harness’s line-level outputs–these are usually low-voltage (2V-4V) RCA-compatible wires, often purple for rear left and gray for front right. If the factory system lacks dedicated outputs, use a line-out converter (LOC) to step down speaker-level signals. Locate the original harness’s thickest wires (16-18 AWG) for high-current outputs; thinner wires (22 AWG) are typically tweeter or signal grounds.
For European models, expect DIN standards where pin 1 = left rear +, pin 2 = left rear –, pin 3 = right rear +, pin 4 = right rear –, and so on. Japanese units may follow a reverse layout, so verify with a pinout table specific to the harness brand. If documentation is missing, probe each wire with a test light–speaker positive wires will pulse when the audio system plays a sine wave tone.
Adapters like the Pac Audio RP4-CH11 retain factory diagnostics; bypassing them risks triggering error codes on models with active noise cancellation or anti-theft features. If the new unit fails to power on, check for a switched ignition wire (often pink or red) and a dedicated ground (black or bare copper). Solder all connections and insulate with adhesive-lined heat shrink to prevent corrosion in high-humidity climates.
Troubleshooting Mismatched Terminals
If the new harness doesn’t fit, compare terminal widths–a 2.3mm blade (common in older units) won’t lock into a 2.8mm socket. File down plastic locks or replace terminals with TE Connectivity 1736318-1 for a secure fit. For odd-shaped connectors (e.g., triangular or hexagonal), use a crimp-and-seal kit; avoid twist-and-tape methods, which degrade signal fidelity over time.
When retrofitting to a system with Bose or Harman Kardon tuning, note that these use high-efficiency loads (2-4Ω); standard aftermarket units may clip or overheat. Add inline resistors (4.7Ω for 8Ω systems) if distortion occurs. For digital signal processors (DSP), ensure the harness includes a CAN bus wire (often orange/white) to retain steering wheel controls–skipping this step will disable volume knobs or voice commands.