VW Swing Axle Outer Bearing Parts Diagram and Replacement Guide

When servicing the independent rear suspension on a classic Volkswagen Beetle, Type 3, or early Bus, focus first on the trailing arm bearing housing–specifically the wheel-side pivot assembly. This unit consists of two tapered roller bearings pressed into a machined hub, secured by a retaining plate, circlip, and castle nut. While the factory manual specifies part numbers 113-501-133B (inner race) and 113-501-147B (outer race/cup), aftermarket suppliers often cross-reference these to Timken LM67048/LM67010 or SKF 32008 X/Q standards. Never mix brands when replacing pairs: pre-load tolerances differ by one to two thousandths of an inch, and mismatched sets will fail prematurely.

Disassembly requires a bearing puller capable of 2.5 metric tons–generic automotive sets rarely provide enough reach. Slide-hammer designs with a 40 mm jaw opening work best; any smaller risks damaging the hub flange. Clean the housing bore with brake cleaner, then inspect the seating surface for pitting or galling. If corrosion exceeds 0.003 in depth, replace the entire arm; welding repairs void structural integrity. Before pressing new races, chill the components in dry ice for 15 minutes–thermal contraction eases installation without force, reducing risk of an out-of-round seat.

Reassembly torque follows a strict sequence: tighten the castle nut to 44 ft-lbs while rotating the hub clockwise by hand; back off ⅙ turn, then align with the nearest cotter pin hole. A final 12-15 ft-lbs ensures proper preload. Lubricate exclusively with synthetic 75W-90 gear oil or Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease; conventional lithium grease separates under heat cycling, causing bearing starvation within 3,000 miles. Seal replacement is non-negotiable–original metal-cased units (part 113-501-139A) should be upgraded to modern rubber-coated variants (NAPA 27761 or Continental 4443) to prevent gearbox oil ingress and premature wear.

Post-installation, check camber at static ride height; Volkswagen specifies -1° ± 0.5° for all swing-arm models. Measure with a digital inclinometer at three reference points: inner edge of wheel rim, hub flange, and lower strut mount. If readings deviate, adjust shims at the torsion housing–the washer stack (part 113-501-335A) tolerates only three shim variations (0.015 in, 0.031 in, 0.062 in). Never exceed a total shim thickness of 0.125 in; over-shimming accelerates bearing wear by increasing side-loading.

Road test must include a cold-start drive cycle: accelerate to 35 mph, coast in neutral, then brake to stop–repeat five times. Monitor for abnormal bearing whine or hub drag; either indicates improper preload or race misalignment. If present, disassemble immediately–contamination or brinelling occurs within minutes, leading to catastrophic hub failure. For high-mileage restoration (50,000+ miles), replace the entire trailing arm; fatigue cracks develop near the front mounting bushings, invisible under paint but detectable with dye-penetrant testing.

Key Components of Volkswagen’s Independent Rear Wheel Assembly

Replace the hub cartridge every 30,000–50,000 miles, depending on road conditions. Use OEM part #111 501 611 (early models) or #111 501 625 A (later revisions) for compatibility with the torsion-leaf setup. Apply 90 g of NLGI 2 lithium-based grease–type Mobilgrease XHP 222–during assembly, ensuring even coating between races and rollers. Torque the retaining nut to 120–140 Nm, then back off, retighten to 50 Nm, and secure with a new cotter pin; improper preload causes premature wear or catastrophic failure.

Component	OEM Reference	Wear Limit (mm)	Tool Required
Inner race	113 501 601 A	0.04	Koni K-2014
Roller set	N 012 515 2	0.03	Snap-on S-817
Seal lip	111 501 605	0.05	Starrett 213A

Inspect the trailing arm bushings for radial play exceeding 0.1 mm; cracked specimens demand immediate replacement with metal-polyurethane inserts. Match original durometer (80A) to maintain compliance with camber settings. Clean mating surfaces with Loctite 7063 degreaser before applying 3M Scotch-Weld EC-1386 structural adhesive to the bushings; cure at 80°C for 90 minutes under 200 kg clamping force.

Matching the Right Hub Component for VW Independent Rear Suspension by Production Year

For 1955–1960 Type 1 Beetles, use hub element 111 407 625 A, paired with seal 113 501 155 A. Models from 1961–1964 require 113 407 625, a slightly revised version with identical dimensions but improved metal alloy. Verify the inner race shoulder width–30.0 mm for early examples, 29.5 mm for 1962 onward–to confirm fitment before installation; incorrect clearance will cause premature wear on the stub shaft thread.

Post-1964 variants through 1968 adopt hub component 113 407 625 B, featuring a dual-lip grease guard instead of the earlier single-lip design–replace both seals if swapping only the rolling assembly. Ghia and Type 3 (1961–1967) share 113 407 625 B for rear trailing arms; Transporter rear assemblies (1960–1967) demand 211 407 625 A, a heavier-duty unit with a 45 mm outer cup versus Type 1’s 40 mm. Cross-check spline count on the half-shaft flange: 22 teeth for Beetle, 24 for Bus and Type 3.

Step-by-Step Disassembly of the VW Independent Rear Suspension Wheel Hub

Secure the vehicle on a level surface using jack stands positioned under the chassis rails–never rely on the hydraulic jack alone. Remove the rear wheel and brake drum, exposing the hub nut. Use a 32mm socket to loosen the nut while an assistant applies the brakes to prevent the hub from rotating. If corrosion is present, soak the threads with penetrating oil and allow it to sit for at least 15 minutes before attempting removal.

Detach the backing plate by removing the four securing bolts with a 10mm socket. Gently pry the plate away from the hub assembly, taking care not to damage the brake line connection. Label and photograph the position of all brake components if reinstallation is planned. The hub nut, now fully removed, reveals the thrust washer and splined flange–note their orientation for reassembly.

Extract the splined flange by pulling it straight out; if seized, use a two-jaw puller centered on the flange’s inner face. Apply gradual pressure to avoid distorting the splines. Behind it lies the preload shim–measure its thickness with calipers to ensure correct adjustment during reassembly. The hub itself is press-fit onto the stub shaft; tap it outward using a brass drift against the inner race while supporting the opposite end on a hard surface.

Inspect the stub shaft for wear or scoring–replacement is required if grooves deeper than 0.05mm are visible. Clean all components with a lint-free cloth and brake cleaner, paying special attention to the sealing surfaces. The hub seals should be replaced regardless of condition; pry them out with a seal pick and discard. The inner race may remain on the stub shaft–remove it using a bearing separator tool or carefully heat the area with a propane torch to expand the metal before tapping it free.

The retaining clip securing the hub to the stub shaft must be removed with circlip pliers. If the clip is corroded, replace it with a new one matching the original specifications (typically 2.5mm thick). Examine the splines on both the flange and stub shaft for debris or damage; clean them with a wire brush and ensure smooth engagement. Store all disassembled components in clearly labeled containers to prevent cross-contamination with lubricants or other assemblies.

Before reassembly, verify the hub’s internal taper matches the stub shaft’s dimensions–any misalignment can cause premature failure. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease (e.g., lithium-based NLGI #2) to all friction surfaces, avoiding excessive amounts that could contaminate brake components. Install new seals using a seal driver, ensuring they sit flush with the hub’s outer face. Torque the hub nut to 180–220 Nm (133–162 ft-lb) in three stages, rotating the hub between increments to settle the assembly.

Tools Needed for Front Hub Assembly Repair on Classic VW Rear Trailing Arm

Begin by gathering a 30mm deep-well socket for the hub nut–this size is non-negotiable for the Type 1 and early Bay Window models. Pair it with a half-inch drive breaker bar; a standard ratchet lacks the leverage to break loose the torque-sealed fastener without rounding the flats. Include a 17mm socket for the brake caliper bolts and a 10mm for the backing plate, as these vary by model year but remain consistent on 1960s–1970s vehicles.

Secure a heavy-duty bearing puller with 2-3 jaw options–irrelevant generic kits won’t grip the press-fit races. Verify the puller’s spread accommodates the 62mm outer race diameter; aftermarket rings often bind unexpectedly if undersized. A torque wrench calibrated to 180–220 ft-lbs is mandatory–the factory spec fluctuates by axle variant but never exceeds this range. Omit this, and risk catastrophic hub detachment under load.

• Slide hammer (5–7lb) for stubborn seals–avoid claw hammers, which deform the lip.
• Brass drift punch (8mm) to align new races without marring the housing.
• Grease packing tool (conical) to force lubricant into the retainer cage gaps.
• Non-contact thermometer to confirm uniform heating of the hub during disassembly (target: 250°F).
• Magnetic retrieval tool–critical for dropped fasteners in the axle tube.

Store tools in sequence: disassembly (socket, puller, slide hammer), inspection (micrometer, flashlight), reassembly (torque wrench, grease packer). Loose components fail; verify each tool’s fitment before lifting the vehicle–once the trailing arm is removed, improvising is impossible.