Complete 2016 Dodge Dart Speaker Wiring Color Code Guide
For owners handling aftermarket installations, start by identifying the factory harness colors before splicing wires. The 12-pin connector at the amplifier output (typically behind the glovebox) distributes audio signals–pinout details follow:
Front left door: Pink (+), Dark Blue/Orange (-)
Front right door: Purple (+), Dark Blue/White (-)
Rear left speaker: Green (+), Brown (-)
Rear right speaker: Light Blue (+), Dark Green (-)
Ground connections must terminate at unpainted chassis points near the original unit’s mounting location. Use 16-gauge oxygen-free copper wire for amplifier feeds if bypassing the OEM head unit–resistance below 0.1 ohms prevents signal degradation.
If diagnosing crackling or dead channels, probe each terminal with a multimeter set to AC voltage during playback. A reading below 200mV indicates weak amplification; inspect for corroded splices or improperly crimped connectors. For premium upgrades, match impedance (4 ohms nominal) to avoid clipping at high volumes.
Retain the antenna trigger wire (Yellow/White) to activate remote-powered antennas–interrupting this circuit disables AM/FM reception. When integrating subwoofers, tap the rear speaker outputs and route through a 12dB/octave low-pass filter set to 80Hz to preserve bass clarity.
Vehicle Audio System Connection Guide for 2016 Model Compact Sedan
Locate the front door tweeter harness behind the interior panel–identify the two-pin connector marked “TWEETER” in the service manual; pin A carries the positive signal, typically wired to a gray wire with a violet stripe, while pin B grounds via a solid black wire. Verify continuity with a multimeter before splicing, as factory wiring varies between trim levels; incorrect connections may trigger amplifier protection mode, disabling audio output entirely.
For rear coaxial units, trace the factory harness near the trunk hinge area–look for an eight-pin plug labeled “REAR SPKR.” The left channel uses orange (positive) and brown (negative) leads, while the right channel relies on gray (positive) and dark green (negative). Mistakes here often result in phase cancellation, producing muffled sound; solder joints must be insulated with heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion from moisture ingress.
Dashboard-mounted high-frequency drivers follow a separate circuit–access the harness by removing the climate control bezel. The connector here features four pins; two for left (yellow/white stripe) and two for right (dark blue/white stripe), with corresponding grounds (black). These feeds originate directly from the head unit, bypassing the external amplifier found in higher-end variants; ensure correct impedance matching (4 ohms) to avoid overheating.
Subwoofer integration requires tapping into the low-level RCA outputs at the head unit if an aftermarket amplifier is installed. Factory wiring does not include dedicated sub outputs; instead, use a line-out converter connected to the rear speaker wires. Adjust gain settings carefully–excessive input can clip signals, damaging both the converter and amplifier circuitry.
Dash harness connectors often include illumination wires–avoid confusing these with audio feeds (typically pink or light blue in older schematics). A misconnected illumination wire may trigger dashboard warning lights or drain the battery when the vehicle is off. Use a wiring diagram specific to your VIN for pinpoint accuracy, as mid-year production changes are common.
Test each connection with an audio signal before final assembly–use a tone generator set to 1 kHz at moderate volume. Listen for balanced output across all drivers; uneven levels suggest incorrect wiring or a faulty ground. If static persists, check for pinched wires near the door hinge or corroded terminals in the kick panel area–factory connectors are prone to oxidation after five years of use.
Locating Factory Audio Components and Their Interface Variants
Begin by removing the door panels–use a trim removal tool to pry the clips without damaging the retaining tabs. Front doors house 6.5-inch mid-range drivers secured with three T15 Torx screws near the latch mechanism. The tweeter mounts in a separate pod directly behind the side mirror, requiring a 10mm socket to detach its bracket. Both units terminate in a 2-pin Metra TY-2 connector featuring sealed O-rings; verify continuity before reattaching.
Rear deck components are accessed by folding the rear seats flat and lifting the parcel shelf. The coaxial units–6×9 ovals–are held by four 8mm bolts; slide them forward to disconnect the harness. The factory harness uses a 4-pin rectangular plug (AMP 172220) with color-coded leads: solid white (LF+), white/black stripe (LF-), solid purple (RF+), purple/black stripe (RF-), and so on–cross-reference with a multimeter set to 200Ω to confirm signal paths.
Dashboard and Pillars Interface Breakdown
Dashboard tweeters sit beneath the A-pillars, capped by a snap-fit grille. Pop the grille with a plastic wedge, then unscrew the single Phillips screw to release the unit. Each tweeter uses a pigtail connector (JST VH-2pin) that mates with a matching header; pull straight back to avoid bending pins. If replacing, apply dielectric grease to maintain corrosion resistance.
Center dash midrange–rare in base trims–mounts behind the climate control fascia. Remove the HVAC panel by prying the lower lip, then unbolt the two 7mm hex screws. The driver connects via a 2-wire Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 plug; note orientation–the chamfered corner indicates Pin 1 (positive). Swapping to aftermarket gear requires an adapter harness, as the factory plug carries 12V accessory power on the same circuit.
Subwoofer integration appears only in GT or Rallye packages, concealed under the spare tire well. Lift the carpet, then unscrew the six 10mm bolts securing the enclosure. The amplifier–if equipped–uses a 16-pin Delphi connector; Pin 1 (constant +12V), Pin 2 (ground), Pin 3 (LF signal), through Pin 16 (subwoofer signal). Measure voltage at the amplifier’s power wire–should read 11.8V key-on–to rule out blown fuses before troubleshooting signal loss.
Harness Verification and Connector Pinouts
Factory harnesses often corrode at the door jamb grommet. Slice open the rubber boot, inspect each conductor–thin wire gauge (22AWG for signal, 18AWG for power) degrades faster under flex cycles. Use a crimp connector (non-insulated) and heat-shrink tubing to repair breaks; soldering risks melting adjacent insulation. For door tweeters, the resistance should measure 3.2Ω ± 0.3Ω; values outside this range suggest partial shorts.
Rear coaxial units present unique challenges: the woofer and tweeter share a single harness, separated by an inline crossover embedded in the basket. The factory harness terminates in a 6-pin AMP 172321 plug–solid gray (woofer +), gray/black (woofer -), solid red (tweeter +), red/black (tweeter -). If swapping to component sets, install passive crossovers externally, as the stock crossover restricts bandwidth to 1.8kHz ± 200Hz.
Door Audio Connector Pinout and Cable Identification Guide
Begin by locating the factory harness connectors behind the door panels–both driver and passenger sides follow a mirrored layout. The front modules use a 12-pin rectangular plug (part #68041558AA), while the rear doors employ an 8-pin variant (part #68041559AA). Disconnect the battery negative terminal before probing any terminals to prevent short circuits or airbag faults.
| Door Location | Pin Number | Wire Color | Audio Function | Voltage (RMS) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Front Left | 1 | Dark Green | Midrange (+) | 2.8V |
| 2 | Dark Green/White | Midrange (−) | – | |
| 4 | Light Blue/Red | Tweeter (+) | 3.1V | |
| 5 | Light Blue/White | Tweeter (−) | – | |
| Rear Left | 3 | Violet/Orange | Full-range (+) | 3.5V |
| 4 | Violet/White | Full-range (−) | – |
Use a multimeter (set to 20V AC) to verify signal polarity before finalizing any connections. Probe pins 1 and 2 on the front harness while playing a 1kHz sine wave–correct phase will show identical sine shapes, while reversed polarity will flatten the waveform. Repeat for pins 3–4 on rear harnesses to confirm consistent signal integrity across all channels.
Insulate splices with dual-wall heat shrink tubing (3:1 ratio) and crimp connectors meeting UL1059 standards. Avoid twisting wires or using butt connectors–they risk corrosion in door cavities. For aftermarket tweeters lacking built-in crossovers, install inline 3.3µF polypropylene capacitors in series on the positive leads to prevent low-frequency distortion.
Reconnect the battery only after verifying all connections with a continuity tester. Test audio output at 75% volume using pink noise to ensure no rattles or clipped peaks occur. Check for secure retention clips on door harness grommets–improper seating risks wires chafing against the window regulator over time.
How to Safely Tap into the Harness for Aftermarket Audio Upgrades
Begin by locating the factory electrical connector behind the vehicle’s dashboard or door panel where the original sound system connects. Use a multimeter set to DC voltage (20V range) to identify active circuits–probe each pin while the ignition is on to confirm constant 12V, switched 12V, and ground lines. Mark these with labeled tape to avoid cross-wiring during installation.
Select a high-quality T-harness adapter matching the vehicle’s make and model to bypass cutting factory cables. If an adapter isn’t available, strip 1/4 inch of insulation from the target wires using a precision stripper–never scissors–to expose clean copper strands. Twist strands tightly and apply a small amount of rosin flux before soldering to prevent oxidation and ensure a low-resistance connection.
Avoid relying on crimp connectors for power-carrying lines. Instead, use heat-shrink tubing over soldered joints, sliding it into place before heating evenly with a heat gun. For signal-level lines (e.g., RCA or speaker-level inputs), solderless butt connectors may suffice if properly insulated, but always verify continuity with a multimeter before finalizing the connection.
Route new cables away from sharp edges, moving parts, and heat sources like exhaust pipes or engine components. Secure with nylon zip ties every 12 inches to prevent sagging or chafing. For vehicles with advanced driver-assistance systems (ADAS), keep aftermarket wiring at least 6 inches from sensor harnesses to avoid electromagnetic interference.
Test each connection for functionality before reassembling interior panels. Play a sine-wave test tone through the system at moderate volume to check for distortion–if present, revisit ground connections first, as a poor ground is a common cause of noise. If buzzing persists, install a ground-loop isolator inline with RCA cables to eliminate alternator whine.
For amplifiers requiring direct battery power, fuse the positive line within 18 inches of the battery terminal using a fuse holder rated 5-10A above the amplifier’s maximum draw. Run this cable through a grommet in the firewall, sealing gaps with silicone to prevent moisture ingress. Never tap into existing fuses for high-current draws; instead, use an add-a-circuit fuse tap rated for the load.
Critical steps:
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before handling any electrical work to prevent short circuits.
- Use a non-contact voltage tester to confirm wires are dead before stripping or cutting.
- Label all wires at both ends to avoid confusion during troubleshooting.
If integrating a subwoofer or amplifier, confirm the vehicle’s alternator can handle the additional load–check the alternator’s amperage rating against the total system draw. For systems exceeding 500W RMS, consider upgrading the alternator or adding a secondary battery with a capacitor to stabilize voltage under high demand.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
If the radio powers off intermittently, check the switched 12V line–a loose connection here will cause the unit to reset. For dimming issues, verify the illumination line isn’t tied into the same circuit as an accessory that cycles on/off (e.g., daytime running lights). If turn-on delays occur, add a 12V relay with a diode across the coil to prevent backfeeding into the head unit’s remote wire.