Kia Soul 2013 Audio System Wiring Guide and Color Codes

Installing or upgrading the sound system in your model-year hatchback requires precise connector pinouts and color-coded circuits. The main 16-pin harness near the rear amplifier splits into three sets of wires: speaker feeds (white/green, white/blue), constant 12V power (red), and switched ignition (yellow). Ground points–marked black–are typically secured to a chassis bolt behind the glove box or under the center console. Verify each connection with a multimeter before finalizing; errors in polarization or voltage lead to blown fuses or damaged amplifier channels.

Aftermarket adapters like Metra ASWC-1 simplify integration with modern head units, but manual wiring remains necessary for retaining OEM features–steering-wheel controls, USB charging, and Bluetooth microphone input. Locate the gray 8-pin plug beneath the passenger-side dashboard kick panel; this interfaces directly with the factory amplifier and retains the vehicle’s pre-set equalizer settings. Cutting or splicing these wires prematurely disables hands-free calling and audio streaming protocols.

Reference the radio removal procedure first: pry off the climate-control trim bezel using a plastic wedge, then unscrew the two 10mm bolts securing the head unit cage. Document each wire’s position before disconnecting–particularly the purple/white CAN bus line, which communicates dashboard display functions. For navigation-enabled models, the pink/black wire delivers video output; improper routing introduces interference visible on screen.

Use heat-shrink connectors and solder joints for durability; crimp-style terminals degrade over time under engine vibration. Test functionality in stages–power lights, then subsystem activation (parking brake signal via brown/white), followed by full audio output–before reinstalling interior panels. Always disconnect the battery’s negative terminal during modification to prevent short circuits or airbag module corruption.

Audio System Electrical Layout for the 2013 Compact Crossover Model

Begin by disconnecting the vehicle’s battery to prevent short circuits or accidental damage to wiring harnesses during installation.

Locate the factory head unit’s harness connector behind the dashboard panel, typically positioned below the climate controls. Pin assignments follow this sequence:

• Pin 1: Constant 12V power (yellow wire)
• Pin 2: Ground (black wire)
• Pin 3: Illumination (orange with white stripe)
• Pin 4: Accessory power (red wire)
• Pins 5-8: Front speaker outputs (+/- for LF/RF)
• Pins 9-12: Rear speaker outputs (+/- for LR/RR)

Use a multimeter to verify voltage at each pin before connecting aftermarket components. Factory wiring gauge ranges from 18-20 AWG; ensure new connectors match this specification to avoid voltage drop or overheating.

For amplified systems, identify the external amp harness near the subwoofer enclosure. This harness includes:

1. Power input (thick gray wire, 10A fuse)
2. Remote turn-on (blue with white stripe)
3. Front/rear speaker outputs (shielded pairs)
4. Subwoofer low-level inputs (purple/green wires)

Color coding deviations occur in late-production models labeled “UVO Premium.” These variants include:

• CAN bus data wires (orange/green for vehicle speed, gray/black for reverse signal)
• Antenna amplifier feed (pink wire, requires 12V constant)
• Steering wheel control interface (white/blue wire)

Route new cables away from moving parts, HVAC ducts, and sharp metal edges. Secure harnesses with zip ties every 4-6 inches to prevent rattling or chafing.

Aftermarket head units require an adapter harness (Metra 70-8114 or equivalent) to interface with the factory connector. Splice connections should use solder and heat-shrink tubing, not crimp connectors, for long-term reliability.

Test all functions before reassembling the dashboard. Key checks include:

• Illumination sync with headlights
• Correct speaker polarity (no phase cancellation)
• Subwoofer output below 80Hz
• Steering wheel controls’ responsiveness
• Parking brake engagement for video playback compliance

Finding the Factory Audio System Plug Connection

Begin by removing the center dashboard trim panel–use a plastic pry tool to release the clips along the top and sides. Work downward from the climate controls to avoid damaging the tabs. The harness plug sits directly behind the head unit assembly, secured by a single retaining screw or friction clip. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before proceeding to prevent short circuits.

Identifying Pin Layout

The 16-pin connector on the vehicle side follows an industry-standard color code: yellow (constant 12V), red (switched 12V), black (ground), blue/white (remote turn-on), orange (illumination), and purple (antenna power). Speaker wires use a two-tone scheme–front left (gray/white), front right (white/black), rear left (green/white), and rear right (violet/black). Verify each wire with a multimeter set to DC voltage before making connections.

For models with amplified systems, locate the separate 8-pin amp connector beneath the passenger-side kick panel. This plug contains low-level signal wires (gray, green, purple, and white) and requires matching to aftermarket interfaces using ISO adapters or direct splicing. Avoid cutting factory wires–use crimp connectors or T-taps rated for 20-gauge automotive wiring.

Trace the harness path through the firewall grommet near the brake master cylinder if routing new cables to the engine bay. Secure loose wires with zip ties to prevent interference with pedals or gear shifts, maintaining a 3-inch clearance from moving components. Double-check all connections with a test light before reassembling interior trim.

Color-Coded Lead Functions and Connector Pinout Breakdown

Start by locating the yellow (B+) feed–this delivers constant 12V from the battery, powering memory and presets. Connect it directly to the fuse box using a 15A fuse to prevent overloads. Pair it with the red (ACC) wire, which activates the system when the ignition turns to the ON position. These two must never be spliced together; doing so drains the battery overnight.

The black ground requires a clean, bare-metal attachment point. Avoid sheet metal screws; use a self-tapping bolt secured to the chassis near the unit’s mounting bracket. A poor ground causes hissing, distortion, or intermittent shutdowns. For best results, remove paint or undercoating at the connection point and apply dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

Speaker outputs follow a two-tone scheme: gray (front left positive), gray/black (front left negative), white (front right positive), white/black (front right negative). Match these precisely to avoid phase cancellation, which weakens bass response. Rear channels use green (rear left positive), green/black (rear left negative), purple (rear right positive), purple/black (rear right negative). Crossovers or factory amps may split these further–verify with a multimeter for 4-8Ω resistance.

The blue/white (remote turn-on) trigger sends a 12V signal to external amplifiers. Splice it with any aftermarket amp’s remote lead, but insert a 1A fuse in-line to protect the circuit. If the system lacks this wire, tap the ignition-switched red lead, though this risks overloading the harness. For navigation or rear-view camera integration, identify the pink or orange (reverse signal)–it toggles video input when shifting into reverse.

Illumination control uses a orange or orange/white dimmer lead. This adjusts display brightness in sync with the vehicle’s dash lights. Connect it to the headlight switch’s dimmer wire, not the taillight circuit, to ensure proportional dimming. Factory units often tie this to CAN bus data; aftermarket installations may require a resistor (1-2.2kΩ) to simulate proper voltage levels.

Antenna power comes via blue (motorized) or blue/red (powered). The former retracts or extends a mast antenna, while the latter supplies 12V to amplified antennas. For satellite radio or HD tuners, locate the gray or brown (satellite/mute) wire–this carries audio data or mutes during calls. Always test continuity before soldering; a single short can fry the head unit’s internal processing.

Step-by-Step Guide to Safely Disconnecting Factory Harness Connections

Locate the fuse box under the dashboard on the driver’s side and remove the 10A audio system fuse to cut power before handling any connectors. This prevents short circuits and preserves the vehicle’s onboard computer settings. Use a multimeter set to 12V DC to confirm no residual current remains in the harness before proceeding.

Press the release tabs on each plug–most connectors feature a small plastic latch requiring 4–5 mm of inward pressure before they disengage. Avoid pulling wires directly; instead, grip the base of the plug with needle-nose pliers if resistance is met. The larger 24-pin harness near the head unit may need an extra twist (clockwise) after releasing the tab to fully separate.

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal first using a 10mm wrench to eliminate ground loops.
• Label each connector with masking tape–mark positions like “AMP-R,” “SWC,” or “ANT +” to simplify reinstallation.
• For plugs with corrosion, apply dielectric grease sparingly to prevent future oxidation.

Store disconnected harnesses away from sharp edges or moving parts. A 3×5-inch foam pad cut to fit beneath the dash prevents dangling wires from contacting metal surfaces. If accidental contact occurs, inspect for exposed copper strands–use heat-shrink tubing (not electrical tape) for repairs exceeding 5 mm in length.

Key Tools for Disconnection

1. Trimmed #2 Phillips screwdriver for dash panel removal.
2. Plastic pry tool (non-metallic) to avoid scratching trim.
3. Wire strippers calibrated for 18–22 AWG gauge.
4. 12V test light to verify inactive circuits.

Reattach all connections in reverse order, ensuring audible clicks for locked plugs. Reinstall the fuse only after double-checking all interfaces–incipient failures often manifest as intermittent power loss within the first 5 minutes of operation.