How to Wire a Leviton 3 Way Lighted Switch with Step-by-Step Diagram
For a correct setup using a three-terminal configuration with built-in indicator, start by identifying the common terminal (typically marked with a darker screw or labeled “COM”). Connect this terminal to the power source–either the live wire from the panel or the load wire leading to the fixture, depending on whether this is the first or second device in the circuit.
Attach the two remaining traveler terminals (often brass-colored) to their corresponding wires running between the controls. These wires must match exactly–screw color to wire color–to ensure uninterrupted signal transfer. Verify continuity with a multimeter before securing connections, as miswiring here will prevent operation entirely.
If the indicator fails to activate after installation, check the neutral connection at the junction. Most illuminated setups require a neutral wire to power the internal LED; absence of neutral will render the light non-functional while retaining basic control capabilities. Confirm neutral presence in the electrical box before proceeding.
For advanced configurations–such as pairing with a smart relay or timer–install a bypass capacitor (0.1µF, 250V) across the load terminals to suppress voltage spikes that may interfere with electronic components. Failure to include this may result in flickering or premature failure of connected devices.
Grounding is non-negotiable: connect the bare or green ground wire to the designated screw terminal (usually green) on each device. Skipping this step voids manufacturer warranties and creates safety hazards, particularly in metal boxes where stray currents may energize surfaces.
How to Connect a Multi-Location Illuminated Toggle Correctly
Identify the common terminal first. On any dual-position device with a pilot indicator, the common (or “dark”) screw is typically black or copper-colored and positioned apart from the brass traveler screws. Connect the hot feed wire (black or red, gauge 12 or 14) here–never guess; verify with a voltage tester before proceeding. The remaining two brass screws carry the travelers, which must link to the matching terminals on the companion unit at the opposite end. Label each traveler with colored tape (red above, blue below) to prevent crossed circuits, which can cause flickering or dead zones.
Test all combinations after securing wires. Inspect each junction box for proper grounding–bare or green-insulated wire must attach to the green screw on every unit. Cap unused wires individually; never twist multiple conductors together without a wire nut rated for the amperage (15A for 14-gauge, 20A for 12-gauge). If the pilot fails to illuminate once powered, reverse one set of travelers at either device while keeping all other connections intact.
Locating the Primary Connection Point on a Triple-Path Illuminated Control
Start by examining the device for a terminal marked with a darker screw–typically black–or labeled “COM” (common). This connection is usually positioned apart from the two traveler screws, which are brass-colored or marked differently. If no visual distinction exists, use a multimeter in continuity mode: attach one probe to the ground screw and touch the other to each terminal while toggling the actuator. The terminal emitting a steady tone regardless of position is the primary.
Check the manufacturer’s documentation if the markings are unclear. Some models use color-coding: the primary terminal often pairs with a black or red wire distinct from the yellow or white travelers. In older installations, the primary may connect to a red conductor instead of black–verify wire gauge and insulation to avoid confusion with low-voltage travelers.
| Terminal Type | Screw Color | Marking | Wire Color (Common Configurations) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Primary | Dark/Bronze | COM | Black, Red |
| Traveler | Brass | None or L1/L2 | Yellow, Red, White |
| Ground | Green | Ground symbol | Green, Bare Copper |
Troubleshooting Ambiguity
If the primary terminal remains unidentified, trace the circuit: power flows from the panel to the primary side first. Disconnect power, strip insulation from a small section of each wire, and use a non-contact voltage tester to locate the hot wire–this connects to the primary. For split circuits, the primary may link to two wires (line + load); use a circuit map to confirm. Avoid relying solely on wire color as conventions vary by region and installation age.
Step-by-Step Power Feed Installation at the Primary Control Point
Begin by confirming the circuit breaker is off. Use a non-contact voltage tester to verify no current flows to the terminal box. Identify the incoming power cable: the black (hot) conductor, white (neutral), and bare or green grounding wire. Strip 3/8-inch of insulation from each conductor if not prepped.
Attach the black wire from the utility feed to the common terminal–often marked darker or labeled “COM” on the device’s face. Secure it tightly with a screwdriver; loose connections risk arcing. The neutral from the power source connects to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel or a wire nut if joining multiple circuits later.
Connect the ground wire to the grounding screw on the fixture or its metal housing, then run another short ground pigtail to the common grounding terminal on the control. Tighten all screws firmly to prevent vibration loosening over time. If the box is non-metallic, run an additional bare wire from the fixture’s ground terminal to the nearest grounding point in the panel.
Route the red and black travelers from the secondary control point into the remaining two terminals. Match their positions exactly–swapping them reverses functionality. Fold wires neatly into the box, ensuring no insulation pinches under the device’s mounting screws. Secure the faceplate to the wall, aligning screw holes precisely to avoid misalignment.
Restore power at the breaker. Test functionality by toggling both points: illumination should match in both positions. If the circuit fails, recheck connections–specifically the common terminal link–before assuming component failure. Label both controls clearly for future maintenance.
Connecting the Intermediate Conductor Between Dual 3-Position Controllers
Identify the brass-colored screw terminals on both devices–these are the connectors for the auxiliary conductor. Strip 5/16 inch of insulation from each end of the 14 AWG copper wire, ensuring the exposed metal doesn’t exceed the terminal clamp depth. Secure one end to the upper brass terminal of the first unit and the opposite end to the lower brass terminal of the second, tightening each screw to 12-15 inch-pounds using a torque screwdriver. Avoid twisting the conductor; a straight, untwisted length between devices prevents signal degradation.
- Use only solid 14 AWG THHN wire–stranded conductors may loosen under clamp pressure.
- Confirm polarity: attach the conductor to matching terminal positions on both devices (upper to upper or lower to lower) to maintain consistent circuit sequencing.
- Test continuity with a multimeter set to 200 ohms before energizing; resistance should read below 0.5 ohms.
- Label both ends of the conductor with heat-shrink tubing marked “T” for troubleshooting clarity.
Install strain relief by looping the conductor once around each terminal screw before clamping–this prevents conductor pull-out when devices are adjusted or wall plates removed. For elongated runs, secure the conductor to junction box studs every 18 inches using insulated staples, maintaining a minimum 1-inch clearance from any grounded surfaces. Once installed, cycle both toggles through all positions to verify the conductor toggles the load on and off without flicker or delay, indicating proper tension and contact integrity.
Attaching the Luminaire to the Secondary Dual-Control Toggle
Ensure the circuit power is fully disconnected at the breaker before proceeding. Identify the traveler terminals on the downstream dual-control mechanism–these are typically marked with darker brass screws. Connect the luminaire’s neutral (white) conductor directly to the neutral bundle in the electrical box, using a wire nut to secure the splice. The fixture’s hot (black or red) lead should be joined to the common terminal on the secondary control, distinguished by a darker screw (often black or copper). Verify the connection tightness with a torque screwdriver set to 12 in-lbs to prevent loosening over time.
For installations where the luminaire includes a ground conductor, attach it to the grounding bundle in the box using a green wire nut or a bare copper pigtail. If the control mechanism lacks a grounding screw, route the fixture’s ground to the metal box via a dedicated grounding clip–never omit this step, as improper grounding increases shock and fire risks. Check the manufacturer’s specifications for the toggle’s load rating; exceeding it may cause premature failure or overheating. Use 14 AWG conductors for 15-amp circuits or 12 AWG for 20-amp circuits, matching the existing branch wiring.
Critical: After securing all connections, re-energize the circuit and test the luminaire’s operation in both control positions. If flickering occurs, recheck the traveler terminations–loose strands or incorrect attachments (common to grounding screws instead of traveler terminals) are frequent culprits. Label the conductors before finalizing splices; misidentification during subsequent work can lead to short circuits. Replace any damaged insulation or nicked wires discovered during installation to comply with NEC 310.10 standards.